(Sourcing tea with the Yamaguchi family in 2014)
If there is one tea that could define the last 10 years of Kettl, it would be our Miyabi Sencha. The piercing aroma and satiny mouthfeel stopped me in my tracks and literally inspired me to start the foundational work that would lead to Kettl. Produced by the Yamaguchi family, deep in the heart of the Hoshino Valley in Yame, Miyabi is a blend of first flush leaves, 4 cultivars in all, that come together with a combination of sweetness, freshness, and depth that still brings a smile to my face (I drank a cup this morning). When I was finally able to import a small selection of teas in 2013, it was a box of Miyabi that arrived first. For those that remember its very first name was "Kasumi" which I later changed. To this day, this is the tea I recommend both to folks who want to start their journey into tea, and for those who are looking to go deeper.
(Brewing a cup of Miyabi Sencha. At this point, I may have drank over 30 kilos of this tea myself)
Central to the quality of Miyabi is both the land and the producer. This tea is overseen by the Yamguchi family, specifically Shinya Yamaguchi. It is his intense passion for quality and unrivaled talent in both procuring, processing, and blending the materials that go into Miyabi. Like a great bottle of wine, the elements necessary that must come together to create something as special as Miyabi is staggering. And what's most impressive is in the 10 years we have been offering it, we haven't yet had an "off year". This consistency is something rare and showcases the comfort Yamaguchi san has making split second decisions at the tea auction. He has an acute sense regarding the final "Shiagecha" processing. You might think he does the same thing again and again in order to maintain consistency—but quite the opposite—it is the understanding of the tea that allows him to make changes each day to coax the best from the leaves.
(Yamaguchi san inspecting leaves before harvest. The woman to his right sells her entire garden to him, and he checks in on it daily. On this day he mentioned she should begin harvesting the next day as the tea was perfectly ready to be picked.)
Yamaguchi-san’s intense passion and incredible attention to detail are legendary. He is regarded as an expert not only in the production of tea but as a master sommelier in evaluating the quality of tea as well. He is one of only ten people in the Japanese tea industry to have a perfect jūdan rating—meaning he has perfect scores when it comes to tea evaluation. Other producers refer to him with accolades like “genius,” “legend,” and “once in a generation,” among others. Yamaguchi-san and his family have been growing tea in the small town of Hoshinomura—central Fukuoka—since World War II. The soil, mountain air, and fresh streams make it an ideal location, but the community and its commitment to one another are also the bedrock of the success of this tiny town that produces some of Japan's most revered teas.
INTERVIEW: Miyabi's Maker - SHINYA YAMAGUCHI
Zach Mangan: You belong to a generation of tea farmers. Can you share with us a little bit of the history of your business?
Shinya Yamaguchi: My family started as tea farmers after World War II. Back then, everyone was growing tea in their backyard. My grandfather convinced the local tea farmers around Hoshinomura village to share their tea. That was the origin of our business. He then started finishing tea and creating shiagecha [refined or finished tea]. Currently we have a factory, warehouse, and refrigeration. The building we are currently in was built in 1978, and our new factory was built in 1999. So, we don’t have a long history.
How has your business evolved over time?
We are now a tea manufacturer, so we mainly focus on the finishing, or processing aracha into shiagecha. But since we own our farm, we are able to produce many types of products. We also do packaging, wholesaling, and retailing.
(Evaluating Aracha before finishing)
What are your responsibilities within your business?
I am the senior managing director, so I decide the strategy of the company. But personally, I still prefer a hands-on approach and making tea. So, while I play a big role in setting the direction for the business, I also do cultivar testing and analysis in my own farm. I like to explore the tea’s possibilities. It is my passion.
When I talk to farmers in Uji, I have noticed that they like keeping tradition and history. However, in your case, it seems you are very open to trying something new. Is this a characteristic of Kyushu, or is it specific to your family?
I’m not sure, but I think it’s both. After finishing my tea studies in Shizuoka and Kyoto, I started to notice the good things about my hometown, such as the soil quality, the altitude, and of course the people. But I don’t think we have yet realized Yame’s full potential. And that is exactly what motivates me to challenge many things.
If you think about it, Uji tea sells no matter what since it has a long tradition [Uji has major regional recognition, similar to Burgundy or Bordeaux in French wine]. But since we don’t have such history, we need to compete on quality or new ideas that can help us to stand out. And that drive to produce high-quality tea is the reason why we have been able to continue receiving Daijin awards.
(Meticulousness and constant commitment to quality ensures Miyabi Sencha is a stunner each and every year)
How important do you think soil is to the flavor of the tea?
I think that soil quality is more important than the farmer’s techniques. When you look at all areas that produce tea in Japan, even if the weather is similar, and they have the same temperature and the same amount of rain, the production regions of so-called special-grade or high-grade teas are very limited. And that is because of the different soil quality.
So, is the soil what determines the quality of the tea?
Generally speaking, yes. However, there are some cultivars, such as Okumidori, Tsuyuhikari, and Saemidori, that can be grown steadily regardless of the soil quality. There is always a way to make delicious tea even if the soil is not great.
What is your desert-island tea?
That is a difficult question, but I think I would bring matcha.
10 years on and it feels like things have changed so much at Kettl - but much remains the same. Perhaps most consistent is that a cup of Miyabi Sencha continues to satisfy us in a way few other teas can. We are committed to continuing the work of the Yamaguchi family by passionately sharing their teas - especially Miyabi Sencha with you all. To those who haven't tried it, We can assure you it will never disappoint. And to those who continue to drink it, we raise our tea cups to you.
Want to learn more about Miyabi and order a bag for yourself?
