As summer turns again to fall, again our desire for warmth returns. The satisfaction we seek in a wool sweater or a hot cup of tea is hard wired into us - an impulse for comfort as the outside world turns gray and cold. The days are shorter and we spend more of our time in darkness. Although most of us now have electricity, hot water, and warm winter clothing, the ritual of seeking out warmth remains. These seasonal desires are a product of living with four distinct seasons - and taking a moment each day to intentionally enjoy the distinct feeling of each micro season is a way to stay connected and feel a deeper connection to our surroundings. Below I compiled some of my favorite rituals that beckon the return to Autumn.
Space: Return to the Ro, or sunken hearth.
In Japanese tea rooms, the method of heating water reflects the seasons and nothing signals the return to fall like the opening of the tea room floor and the return to using “Ro”. “Seasonality and the changing of the seasons are considered important for enjoyment of tea and tea ceremony. Traditionally, tea practitioners divide the year into two main seasons: the sunken hearth (炉, ro) season, constituting the colder months (traditionally November to April), and the brazier (風炉, furo) season, constituting the warmer months (traditionally May to October).” ( Wikipedia ). When entering a tea room, the subtle aroma of the sumi charcoal and the soft orange glow of the coals sets a distinct mood of warmth and is the ultimate antidote to the gray and cold outside.
Taste: Fall Shincha , a seasonal release
Fall Shincha is a tea we look forward to every year and a sure signal that summer has passed and the shorter days of fall are upon us. Based on the tradition of Kuradashi meaning “from the storehouse”—this tea undergoes a resting period called Jukusei, a practice of allowing the tea to mellow over time that is can also be found in the production of Sake, Soy sauce, and other traditional Japanese foods. With Fall Shincha, spring picked tea leaves undergo a 6-month cold aging, done at -30C. This resting period allows amino acids in the tea to develop while the catechin and fragrant compounds mellow and integrate. The result is a preservation of the heady aromas of Shincha coupled with a laser-focused umami, lasting sweetness, and a concentrated nuttiness. Fall Shincha is an inimitable example of the harmony between terroir, craft and seasonality and its resulting excellence.
Aroma: Incense, the color of the season
While I am an admitted incense obsessive, and burn it all year round, it is during Fall and Winter that I feel the most connected to aroma. Japanese incense, or any incense for that matter, has a way of transporting you to a new dimension that I find totally singular. I tend to choose spicier more enigmatic incense during the cooler months and start my day by burning a stick when I sit down in my office in the morning. For me, the key is placing the incense in a corner of the room where it wafts in and out of your consciousness - I find incense to be a great partner to a cup of tea but it can also easily be overbearing to the subtlety of certain teas. One of my current seasonal favorites is Suifu from the famed Yamadamatsu Incense Atelier in Kyoto. A spicy and invigorating incense made with a blend of aloeswood and select spices. Notably rich and heady with a lingering sweetness reminiscent of the temples and tea rooms of Kyoto. Yamadamatsu crafts masterful incense in its atelier in Kyoto. With a reputation as a leader in hand crafted, high quality incense, Yamadamatsu continues its legacy as both a protector of traditional craft with a contemporary eye for the future.
Cuisine: Matsutake Mushrooms
While mushrooms are an ingredient available year round, it is the arrival of the Matsutake mushroom that signals the arrival of Autumn. Matsutake can be prepared simply by grilling or adding to soups and they're prized for their complex earthy aroma and intense umami. But like any good mushroom hunter knows, the seasonal window for finding them is short. Good domestic varieties (USA) are available online - from Oregon in particular - but getting a chance to try a real Japanese grown Matsutake is a true experience. Start with this Matsutake Gohan recipe and see where your imagination takes you.
Sound: Music for making Tea
Music and tea are interlinked in a special way for me. Growing up around, studying, and then playing music professionally means it has informed and influenced nearly every part of my life. I discovered early on that tea was a sort of culinary form of music for me - it provides the same sense of discovery, fulfillment, and satisfaction that music does albeit through taste and olfactory channels rather than the ears. Combining the process of listening and drinking tea creates a special harmony - add incense and a good view and the opportunity to be transported is multiplied. Above is a playlist of music that I find enhances my tea drinking - especially in the morning as I awake early. If you love what you hear, I would invite you to seek more information on each artist and consider purchasing their works and supporting their art.
Words: The Mountain Poems of Stonehouse
“I eat a peach spit out the pit the pit becomes a tree
the tree grows and flowers and makes another peach
spring departs and fall arrives year after year
how can I keep my hair from turning white” - Stonehouse
This collection of poems reminds us of the simplicity of nature and its perfection despite the troubles of life. I find it to be a companion year round, but somehow feel it resonates most in the fall. Zen poems and haiku are astounding in their ability to illustrate complex ideas so succinctly.
With Fall on our doorstep, I hope the above brings a new window into how you can enjoy the season. I would love to hear some of your rituals and things that connect you with the season of Fall. Please leave a comment below - I look forward to incorparing some of them into my own experience.
As always, thank you for reading (and enjoy the season) - Zach
